5.8, 5.9, 5.10, etc.
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Pronounced
“five eight, five nine, five ten, etc.,” it is the American rating system for
climbs. The “five” part before the decimal dictates what category the surface
is, that is to say whether it is horizontal or vertical. 1 means the ground
is a horizontal hiking trail, 5 means it is a vertical face. The number after
the decimal is the difficulty of the climb. 5.1 is a baby climb. Most people
can do a 5.6, and that is what most carnival climbing towers are. 5.9 is
considered a beginner range, and 5.10 is when more serious climbing begins.
The limit of human capability is a 5.15, and only a handful of people in the
world can accomplish these climbs.
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Anchors
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The
two parallel bolts at the top of the climb which complete the route. Once a
climber has reached this point, they clip into both, and rappel back down.
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Belay
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The
action of controlling the rope from the ground. This either means feeding
rope up, or taking rope in, depending on the climbing style. The person doing
this action is called the belayer.
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Bolts
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A permanent anchor in the rock installed individually as a protection device, or with other bolts or protection devices as an anchor. The bolt is a metal shaft 1/4 inch, 3/8 inch or 5/16 inch in diameter (common sizes), driven into a hole drilled by the climber, and equipped with a hanger to attach a carabiner. |
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Crimper
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A
very small handhold that you have to crimp just the tips of your fingers on
to hold onto.
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Draws, or quick draws
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The
protection points you clip into bolts on the rock face.
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Jug
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Also known as "THANK GOD!' holds, it's a very large
handhold where your fingers can curve down into it. They are very easy to
hold, and really just wonderful.
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Lead Climbing
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to climb starting with the rope on the ground clipping into protection points on the way up. You literally are taking the rope up with you. Falling really stinks in this type of climbing. |
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Overhang
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A rock face that is less than 90 degrees. Can vary from the last 10 feet of a climb, to the majority of a climb, from just barely overhung, to one where the climber is completely upside-down. |
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Run-out
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This is when your protection, the bolts you clip into on a lead climb, is very far away from where you are. A route can be vertically run-out, where the bolt above you is very far away, or horizontally, where you climb far to the side of where your protection is and must traverse back. |
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Slab
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Any climb that is less than vertical, especially those devoid of features requiring smearing of the feet. |
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Smear
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Not pertaining to bagels. In climbing-ese, this is when you have no foot holds, and so you use the friction from the rubber on your shoes and the texture of the rock to push upward. |
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Top-rope
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This
is what standard climbing is, where the rope is fixed at the top. If you’ve
ever tried out rock climbing for the first time, this is what you did.
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Whipper
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The
slang for falling on a lead climb. It is called a whipper because when you are
lead climbing, your protection (i.e. the point on the wall that your rope is
attached to) can be up to ten feet beneath you. That mean if you were to
fall, you fall that ten feet, plus the ten feet beneath that, and the little
bit extra that the rope will stretch. Like this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vU7ywusVWv4&feature=player_detailpage#t=59s
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Jesus said that even the stones would cry out in praise. What he didn't tell them was the cries were actually from a climber taking a fall on a route.
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